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brands / hermes guide

The Hermès Collector’s Handbook: From the iconic Birkin to secret special orders — your ultimate guide to classic, rare, and limited-edition bags

28.03.2025
Hermes stands among the most ultra-luxury fashion houses. Owning a Kelly or Birkin bag is a dream for connoisseurs of unique things, because these items speak of the high status of the owner. But in all the variety of choices, it can be difficult for a beginner to understand what to buy first. And if he wants to have something unique or promising in terms of investment, then the choice becomes more difficult.

We have prepared a guide to Hermes bags. We will tell you which collections are considered classic, rare and special, which item is better to buy first and which ones are worth considering if you want to invest in luxury items.

Why is Hermes popular?

The history of the fashion house Hermes began in France in 1837 with saddle craft. All Hermes creations, both at the very beginning and today, are made exclusively by hand, and the material requires special processing. High quality attracted nobles and kings of Europe, it is known that Napoleon III was one of the clients.

The company began producing bags, accessories and other leather items only in 1900. Popularity grew: the House of Hermes created products for Nicholas II, Prince Edward of Wales.

Gradually, the range of the fashion house expanded, and watches, jewelry, sandals, gloves, belts and clothing became part of it.

The first Hermes bag was the Haut à Courroies or HAC, a model with long handles for carrying a rider's saddle. Then in 1922, a smaller version appeared, designed at the request of his wife by Emile-Maurice, the grandson of the company's founder. Hermes bags only became popular in 1956: it all started with the famous Kelly.
If you are passionate about luxury, follow trends, changes in prices and demand - you have the opportunity to use this knowledge to increase capital or save your spare money so that it does not lose its value.

The most expensive Kelly bag cost over $400,000 even without the diamond clasp. Source: fashionphile.com

The pandemic and subsequent global political shifts have disrupted supply chains: materials for crafting unique luxury items have become scarce, and production volumes have declined. Consequently, demand has outstripped supply, leading to the inevitable rise in prices characteristic of such market conditions. As a result, investing in luxury goods has emerged as a viable alternative to traditional investment avenues.
The company has made it so that there is a ten-year queue for its bags. The fact is that the number of items released within the collection is limited, but the fashion house does not advertise the exact number. At the same time, a person can buy one model twice a year and only by appointment at the official boutique.

Thus, the fashion house sells not only products, but also a pleasant feeling of owning something unique and inaccessible.

Classic Hermes models

Classic creations include the famous Hermes Kelly and Hermes Birkin, as well as Constance, Lindy, Picotin and Evelyne. Let's look at the features of each.

Hermes Kelly

This model appeared in 1935 under the name Sac a Dépeches, but was not popular. 20 years later, it became famous all over the world thanks to the fact that American actress and Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly was photographed with it. The celebrity tried to hide her pregnancy behind the bag. Thus, one event not only changed the name of the product, but also gave it popularity for decades.

Hermes Kelly has been reissued many times, preserving, on the one hand, the original trapezoidal silhouette, and on the other, acquiring modern elements. The main shapes of the product are: sellier — sharp angles and visible external seams, and retourne — a soft silhouette with internal seams.

Kelly bags feature clean, crisp lines. Source: Hermès

It is also useful to know about the sizes of Kelly, or rather, the capacity of these bags. There are:

Kelly 15 — 15 x 11 x 5 cm. The smallest model, which will only fit a credit card, lipstick and AirPods. It is no longer in production, so it is extremely difficult to find.

Due to its rarity, the model is extremely interesting for collectors

Kelly 20 — 20 x 16 x 10 cm. Slightly more spacious than the previous one. Now the size chart starts with it. You can put a smartphone, lipstick and keys, but no more. Perfect for dates and social events.

Kelly 25 — 25 x 19 x 9 cm. You can also put your favorite book in this bag to go on a daytime walk. And if you unfasten the shoulder strap, the model is still suitable for an evening reception.

Kelly 28 — 28 x 22 x 10 cm. It is one of the three most popular models, as it is suitable for everyday activities. It is convenient to go shopping with it, taking a bottle of water and a compact umbrella.

Kelly 32 — 32 x 23 x 10.5 cm. Another popular bag among those who work in the office and want to have an elegant and at the same time functional accessory.

Kelly 35 — 35 x 24 x 12 cm. A popular model among connoisseurs of luxury, for whom it is important to have a laptop with them. You can put documents in the bag without fear of damaging them.

Size differences between the most popular models

Kelly 40 — 40 x 28 x 16 cm. A great option for a weekend. The bag will fit everything you need for a short trip.

Kelly 50 — 50 x 34 x 25 cm. The bag that started the Kelly story. In terms of dimensions, it meets the carry-on baggage requirements of most airlines. But just in case, it’s better to check this before the trip so that the luxurious designer item doesn’t end up in the luggage compartment.
If you prefer clutches, check out the Hermes Kelly Elan, which originally debuted in the 2000s and made a triumphant return in 2023 with an updated shoulder strap. It’s roomy yet elegant, with the same trapezoid shape.

Also popular are the Kelly Pochette and Kelly Cut Pochette clutches. The Cut is a longer model. Both bags feature the iconic twist lock and are very roomy.

Left — Epsom Kelly Pochette Clutch Rose Confetti, Right — Swift Kelly Cut Pochette Bleu Tempete Clutch. Source: fashionphile.com

Hermes Birkin

This model is also associated with a famous person — singer and actress Jane Birkin. She was lucky to meet the chairman of the board of the house of Hermes on a plane and share with him her wishes for the ideal bag. She was invited to the production, where she chose the sketch and details, and then became the owner of the first Birkin bag.

Hermes Birkin is a roomy and durable product with a lining of high-quality leather in the same color. To prevent the bag from sagging and wearing out, feet are added to its bottom during production: a pair on both sides.

The bags are made from durable ox leather. Source: Hermes

Hermes Constance

This small, practical bag is comfortable to wear on a long strap. Made from the finest calfskin, it is perfect for those looking for durability and elegance.

The model is a quota bag, meaning it is a limited edition. Which makes it even more desirable for collectors of luxury items.

In 2024, Constance became available in the elongated elan form. It’s made of hard Epsom leather with a fine-grained texture that is resistant to scratches. Box-size models can be found in smooth leather.

All models are compact, and there are items made from animal skins unusual for Hermes: lizard, ostrich, crocodile. Source: Hermes

Hermes Evelyne

One of the fashion house's more affordable models, inspired by equestrianism. Despite its relatively low price, it does not lose value upon resale and could be a great lot for a budding luxury investor.

The photo shows the sizes TPM, PM and GM, starting from the smallest. Source: fashionphile.com

Hermes Picotin

This product features a relaxed style with a soft silhouette and plenty of storage space, combining elegance with the company's history, which began with equestrian products.

The bag was first introduced to the world in 2002, and its popularity has only grown since then. Source: fashionphile.com

Hermes Lindy

A soft bag that conveys a playful mood. The unusual placement of the handles makes it comfortable, and the visual compactness perfectly matches the capacity of even the smallest items.

The Lindy bag is a creation inspired by dance. Source: Hermes

Hermes Jypsiere

An elegant bag with a twist closure, a creation of Jean-Paul Gaultier. It embodies lightness and practicality. The product can be found in bright designs - in rich yellow, blue, coral colors.

For some time, Jypsiere was hard to find, but a couple of years ago it came back on sale in a mini size.

The bag is in demand in both classic and bright colors. Source: hermes.com

Hermes Bolide

Among the classic models of the fashion house, the Bolide collection stands out. This travel accessory can be carried in the hand, on the shoulder or over the shoulder. Men often prefer it.

The backpack celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2023. Source: Hermes

Hermes In The Loop

A new lot inspired by marine energy. On the one hand, the bag looks restrained and elegant, and on the other, the design of the handles adds a bit of rebellion to it.

The bag combines smooth and grainy textures. Source: Hermes

The classic Hermes colours are grey and brown, as well as gold, black and orange.

Rare collections

Rare Hermès models appeared during the period of work of exceptional craftsmen.

Hermes Shoulder Kelly

It was designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier, the fashion designer who defined the look of haute couture.

The bag has a rectangular shape, elongated in length. Source: FASHIONPHILE

Hermes So Kelly

This is a unique take on the iconic Kelly. It features a soft case. It is impossible to just see this bag on the street or at an event.

This model is exceptionally rare to find in boutiques or on resale platforms. Source: FASHIONPHILE

Hermes Kelly Dance

A waist bag that can be carried by hand or as a backpack, it features the signature palladium silver-tone hardware closure.

A rare model that is incredibly difficult to find. Source: FASHIONPHILE

Hermes Matte Niloticus Crocodile Himalaya Kelly Retourne 28

The product is made of crocodile skin. To create a shading effect and a reminder of the snows of the Himalayas, the masters of the fashion house carry out a special dyeing, which increases the time it takes to create a handmade bag.
This is a collector's item, available only to VIP clients. Source: FASHIONPHILE

Special collections and orders

Certain Hermès models are crafted as symbolic tributes to pivotal or tragic global events. These pieces are produced in ultra-limited quantities and often accompanied by exclusive packaging.

This category also includes custom-made items. They are distinguished by an embossed horseshoe mark next to the logo.

Hermes de L'Exposition Kelly

The clear PVC vinyl bag was introduced in 1996 in response to a series of terrorist attacks in France. It featured large lettering in English and French.

A second edition in orange was available from 1997 to 1999. Source: FASHIONPHILE

Silk Marble Printed Constance

The Constance bag is a classic model, but this one is unique. It is lined with silk and evokes a spring mood, while leather is traditionally used inside.

You can find this model only in resale. Source: FASHIONPHILE

The most affordable Hermes leather options

Kelly and Birkin are at the top of the fashion house’s price pyramid — and Hermes is known to be very expensive. But the company also produces more affordable items:

● Hermes Herbag. This bag, combining leather and canvas, is suitable for everyday use and resembles the Kelly with its clasps.

● Hermes Evelyne. A distinctive feature is the perforated H logo. This shoulder bag is also suitable for everyday use.

● Hermes Picotin. A compact item in a minimalist design, reminiscent of a basket, belongs to the slightly more expensive, but still affordable models.

● Hermes Lindy. Roomy, despite its visual compactness.

● Hermes Jypsiere. Combines lightness and practicality.

● Hermes Verrou. A square-shaped clutch-style bag with a characteristic clasp.

● Hermes Garden Party. The soft design of the product makes it suitable for both everyday chores and holidays.

● Hermes Halzan. The creation was released in 2014. The bag can be carried by the handles, over the shoulder or transformed into a clutch.

The Hermes Pyramid: from the most affordable bags to the iconic. Source: FASHIONPHILE

Everyone knows that fashion is cyclical. Those lots that are affordable and in low demand today may become significantly more expensive tomorrow. If you managed to find an original Hermes and the price suits you, consider buying the item with an investment in mind.

What to buy as an investment in hermes

Hermes bags hardly lose their value even in resale. Even wearing the product rarely affects the cost, perhaps partly due to the high wear resistance of the materials.

As an investment, it is worth considering the classic Hermes Kelly, Birkin and Constance models in the most characteristic colors of the fashion house. This is the entire spectrum of shades of gray and brown.

If you come across a product that belongs to rare collections or was made to order, it is worth considering buying it. Such things are difficult to find in a luxury resale marketplace, but it is possible. Pay attention to So Black by Jean-Paul Gaultier and fully suede models. Of great interest to collectors are the Birkin Cargo, Kelly Wood and the updated Birkin Shoulder, spotted at the fall-winter 24/25 show.

Where to buy Hermes if there are no boutiques in Russia

You won't be able to buy a rare item directly in the Hermes boutique. But there are many offers on the resale market. Collectors sell some items to buy others. There are definitely classic models here, and you can also find rare ones.

The safest place to look for Hermes originals is on luxury resale marketplaces. Sellers post offers from all over the country, and the company's specialists check the products before sending them to buyers.

The advantages of such companies:
  • thorough check of authenticity;
  • check of the condition of the product before sending to the buyer;
  • safe transaction — your funds are safely stored until the completion of the transaction;
  • “Concierge service" — if you decide to look for a specific model, employees will help you find it anywhere in the world.
Remember, there are counterfeits on the resale market. If you have no experience in authenticating luxury goods, it is better to trust the specialists who work on resale marketplaces. Companies are financially responsible to their customers and do not allow products that raise doubts to be sold.

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